Surfer’s bad wipe out day:
All surfers out there know it but either avoid to discuss it or have forgotten it. And I have seen it in myself and in most of my friends that took on surfing that there will come this day, this hour, this minute when you will get a bad wipe out and it will scare you to death.
Let’s admit it, it has happened to all of us and if it hasn’t, then you probably have just started surfing or are way too lucky.
There are some common stages in this bad wipe out day that have happened to all of us. I have decided to list them down below to help newcomers:
The stages of the bad wipe out day:
Stage one: The day has come. The waves are quite big for you but you decide to get in anyway or it is just not your day. Normally, the bad wipe out day happens when your confidence is starting to pick up.
Stage two: It is actually happening. You get this bad wipe out that lasts for seconds but it seems like hours. And you get out of the water happy to be alive again and you rush to the shore.
This video cannot capture how you actually feel when the bad wipe out actually happens.
Stage three: Your whole perception of surfing as you know it has changed. You ask yourself: What happened to me? I used to not be afraid of anything? I was practically invincible and now I am scared of knee high waves?
What happens after the bad wipe out day?
Stage four: You think you are the only one that had this experience. But good news is that you are not! It has happened to all surfers out there or at least the ones that practice surfing for a while.
Stage five: Now that’s the most tricky stage as it can also determine whether you will carry on surfing or not! The most normal reaction is to not want to get in the water for a while. You will find any excuse you can, not to go surfing. Your belly is hurting, the waves are not good, you feel too tired…And if and when you decide to go in, you will be scared to death and might not even catch any waves that day.
Just be happy to paddle out and make it to the lineup!
This is when you need a good friend, somebody you can trust, to go in with you and to help you get over your fear. Or if you prefer dealing with your fear alone, just go in alone and RELAX. Take it easy that day. Just be happy to paddle out and make it to the lineup. Common mistakes here are that we are too strict with ourselves and then get disappointed too easily.
Stage six: If you make it to this stage, and surpass your fear, then you are a surfer for life. Your perception of surfing will have changed. You will be more scared but you will also be more objective and know what you can and cannot do. You will push yourself but you will also know your limits.
And good news is that as you proceed into surfing, these big waves and bad wipe out days, will seem more normal as you will know what to expect and slowly but steadily your fear will fade away. And that’s the whole beauty of surfing!